Peacock Jumping Spider (Maratus spp.): Care, Colors, Mating Dance & Setup

Peacock jumping spiders are tiny Australian jumping spiders in the genus Maratus. Males are famous for their bright abdominal patterns, raised third legs, and elaborate courtship dance. Depending on species, adults are only about 2-6 mm long, so they are much smaller than many pet parents expect. They are visual hunters, active during the day, and usually prefer vertical space, anchor points, and a secure enclosure with excellent ventilation. (australiangeographic.com.au)

Their colors are not all the same. Some males show red, blue, orange, yellow, black, and iridescent patches, while females are usually more muted and camouflaged. In courtship, the male lifts and displays the abdomen and waves the third pair of legs in a species-specific dance. That display is beautiful, but it also means these spiders are best appreciated as observation pets rather than handled pets. (britannica.com)

For home care, think small, secure, and dry-to-lightly-humid rather than tropical. A well-ventilated arboreal enclosure with climbing twigs, silk anchor points near the top, and light daily access to drinking droplets is usually the safest starting point. Because Maratus species are native to Australia and are not as standardized in the US pet trade as some other jumping spiders, pet parents should confirm species identity and legal sourcing before purchase. (petco.com)

There is limited species-specific veterinary literature for Maratus kept in captivity, so most health guidance is extrapolated from jumping spider husbandry and general arachnid care. The most common problems in captive jumpers are dehydration, failed molts, trauma from falls or feeder insects, and stress related to poor ventilation or an enclosure that stays too damp. Older spiders may also become less effective hunters and need closer feeding support. (petco.com)

Warning signs can be subtle. A spider that stays tightly tucked, stops climbing, has trouble gripping surfaces, appears shrunken in the abdomen, or struggles during a molt needs prompt attention. Mold growth, stale air, and chronically wet substrate can also raise concern for husbandry-related decline. If your spider is weak, stuck in molt, or suddenly unable to coordinate movement, contact an exotics-focused veterinarian right away. (petco.com)

Feeder safety matters too. Prey that is too large can injure a small jumper, and uneaten insects should not be left in the enclosure for long. Wild-caught feeder insects are a poor choice because they may carry pesticides or parasites. Your vet can help you sort out whether a problem is likely environmental, nutritional, age-related, or an emergency. (petco.com)

Peacock jumping spiders are small, but setup costs still matter. In the US, a secure acrylic micro-enclosure usually runs about $20-$60, with premium display enclosures often landing around $60-$120. Add decor, anchor branches, a hygrometer, substrate or liner, and feeder supplies, and many pet parents spend about $50-$150 for a basic setup before bringing the spider home. (petco.com)

The spider itself can vary widely in availability and sourcing. Because Maratus species are Australian and less common in the US hobby than species like Phidippus regius, availability may be limited and ethically sourced specimens may cost more than common jumping spiders. Ongoing monthly costs are usually modest, often around $5-$20 for feeder insects, replacement fruit fly cultures, and enclosure upkeep. (museum.wa.gov.au)

Veterinary access is the wildcard. Many general practices do not see tiny arachnids, so an exotics consultation may be needed if your spider becomes ill. In many US markets in 2025-2026, an exotics exam commonly falls around $80-$180, with additional diagnostics or supportive care increasing the cost range. Calling ahead before you need help is one of the smartest preventive steps. (petco.com)

Peacock jumping spiders are insectivores. In captivity, they do best on appropriately sized live prey, usually no larger than the spider's body length. For tiny juveniles, flightless fruit flies are often the safest option. Larger juveniles and adults may take small flies or other small feeder insects. Variety helps support balanced nutrition over time. (petco.com)

Choose feeders from a pet store or a clean feeder colony rather than catching insects outdoors. Wild insects may carry pesticides or pathogens. Gut-loading feeder insects before offering them can improve nutritional value, and removing uneaten prey after feeding helps reduce stress and injury risk. (petsmart.com)

Hydration is easy to overlook because these spiders do not drink from deep bowls the way mammals do. Most jumping spider care guides recommend light misting so droplets form on the enclosure wall for drinking. The goal is access to water without turning the habitat soggy. If your spider stops eating, looks wrinkled, or seems weak, your vet can help determine whether dehydration, premolt, age, or another issue is involved. (petco.com)

These spiders do not need exercise sessions in the way dogs or cats do, but they do need a habitat that supports normal hunting and climbing behavior. Jumping spiders are active daytime predators that use vision, stalking, and short bursts of jumping to explore and catch prey. A taller enclosure with bark, twigs, silk anchor points, and open climbing routes supports that natural behavior. (petco.com)

Avoid overcrowding the enclosure with decor. Your spider needs secure surfaces, but it also needs room to move and jump. Because many jumpers build resting or molting hammocks near the top, front-opening enclosures are often easier to maintain than top-opening ones that disturb the spider's nest each time you access the habitat. (petsmart.com)

Handling should be optional, brief, and gentle if attempted at all. Peacock jumping spiders are extremely small and fast, so escape and accidental injury are real risks. For most pet parents, the best enrichment is a calm, well-designed enclosure, consistent light cycle, and safe opportunities to hunt live prey. (petco.com)

Preventive care starts with husbandry. Use a secure, escape-proof enclosure with cross-ventilation, avoid chemical sprays or scented products near the habitat, and keep humidity moderate rather than constantly wet. Daily visual checks are more useful than frequent handling. Watch appetite, climbing ability, body condition, web building, and molting progress. (petco.com)

Feeding and cleaning routines should stay simple. Offer correctly sized prey, remove leftovers, spot-clean waste, and replace moldy or damp materials promptly. During premolt, many spiders eat less and hide more. That can be normal, but a spider that is stuck in molt, lying weakly on the floor, or unable to right itself needs urgent veterinary guidance. (petco.com)

Before bringing home any peacock jumping spider, ask about source, species identification, and whether the animal was captive-bred or wild-collected. Because Maratus are Australian endemics and uncommon in the US trade, ethical sourcing matters. It is also wise to identify an exotics veterinarian in advance, since tiny invertebrates can decline quickly once they show obvious signs of trouble. (museum.wa.gov.au)