Jumping Spider Feeding Schedule: How Often to Feed by Age and Species

Jumping spiders do not follow one exact feeding calendar. Age, species, temperature, prey type, and molt stage all change how often they eat. In general, spiderlings need food more often because they are growing quickly, juveniles eat on a moderate schedule, and adults usually eat less often. Common care references place spiderlings on daily to every-2-to-3-day feedings, juveniles about every 3 to 5 days, and adults about every 5 to 10 days, with adjustments based on abdomen size rather than the calendar alone.

Species matters too. Larger jumpers such as Phidippus regius and Phidippus audax can handle larger prey and often stay full longer after a meal. Smaller species may need tinier prey offered more often. Many keepers start early instars on Drosophila melanogaster, move older spiderlings and juveniles to D. hydei or small flies, and then transition adults to houseflies, bottle flies, or other appropriately sized feeders.

Light and temperature also affect appetite. Jumping spiders are visual daytime hunters, so they usually feed best in bright daytime conditions and may eat less in cool rooms. A spider that is active, alert, building hammocks, and maintaining a gently rounded abdomen is often on a workable schedule. A spider with a very swollen abdomen may be getting too much food, while a flat or shriveled abdomen can point to underfeeding, dehydration, or illness.

Pre-molt can look like a feeding problem when it is actually normal. Many jumping spiders stop eating before a molt, spend more time in a thicker hammock, and become less active. During that time, avoid pushing food. Once the molt is complete and the spider is back out exploring, feeding can resume after the exoskeleton and fangs have had time to harden.

For most jumping spiders, the safest amount is not measured in grams. It is measured by prey size, number of feeders, and the spider's abdomen shape. A practical rule is to offer prey that is about the same length as the spider's body or smaller. Very young spiderlings may take 2 to 3 tiny fruit flies in a feeding, while juveniles may take one to several small feeders. Adults often do well with one larger fly or a few medium feeders, then several days off.

Abdomen size is the best day-to-day guide. A slightly plump abdomen is usually a good target. If the abdomen looks stretched, overly round, or heavy enough to affect climbing, slow down and wait longer before the next meal. Overfeeding can increase the risk of falls and may complicate molting in some spiders. If the abdomen looks thin, the spider is hunting actively, and hydration is good, it may be time to feed sooner.

Choose prey with care. Flies are often preferred because many jumping spiders respond strongly to movement and flying prey. Crickets and mealworms can be used for larger juveniles and adults, but they should be supervised and removed if uneaten. Some keepers use waxworms as an occasional treat, not a staple, because they are fattier and less balanced than flies.

Avoid wild-caught insects. They may carry pesticides, parasites, or pathogens. Captive-raised feeders are safer and more predictable. If your spider repeatedly refuses food, looks weak, or has trouble gripping, it is time to review humidity, enclosure setup, and husbandry, and to contact an exotics-focused veterinarian if concerns continue.

A feeding schedule may need adjustment if your jumping spider's body condition changes. Warning signs include a very flat abdomen, a shriveled abdomen, weakness, poor jumping, trouble climbing smooth surfaces, or ongoing refusal to eat outside of a normal pre-molt period. Dehydration can look similar to underfeeding, so always consider both. Many care guides list a shriveled abdomen and lethargy as red flags that need prompt husbandry review.

Overfeeding can also cause problems. A spider with an overly swollen abdomen may move less confidently and may be at higher risk of injury from falls. If your spider seems heavy, sluggish, or uninterested in hunting while the abdomen remains very full, spacing meals farther apart is often safer than continuing a fixed schedule.

Molting issues are another concern. A spider that seals itself in a hammock, stops eating, and becomes less active may be preparing to molt, which is normal. But a spider that is stuck in a molt, collapses after molting, or cannot use its legs normally needs urgent attention. Uneaten prey should not be left with a molting or freshly molted spider because feeder insects can injure it.

When to worry: if your spider has a shriveled abdomen, repeated falls, persistent refusal to eat after a molt, visible injury, or signs of a bad molt, contact your vet promptly. Jumping spiders can decline quickly when hydration, environment, or prey size is off.

If your spider is not doing well with the feeder you are offering, there are safer options than forcing the same prey type. For tiny spiderlings, flightless fruit flies are usually the easiest and safest starting point. As they grow, many do well with larger fruit flies, houseflies, bottle flies, or other soft-bodied feeders that trigger a natural hunting response.

For spiders that seem intimidated by active prey, some keepers use freshly killed or disabled feeders for a short period, especially during transitions between prey sizes. This can reduce the risk of injury from crickets or mealworms. If you use worms or roaches, choose very small individuals and supervise closely. Remove leftovers promptly.

Hydration support is also part of feeding success. Fine droplets on enclosure walls or decor are often more useful than a large water bowl for small jumpers, though some juvenile and adult setups also include a small dish. A spider that is mildly dehydrated may refuse food until it drinks first.

If your spider regularly ignores ground-dwelling prey, try flying feeders from a reputable source instead of increasing meal size. Many jumping spiders are visual hunters and respond better to movement in the air than to prey sitting still on the floor. If appetite remains poor despite good husbandry, your vet can help rule out injury, dehydration, or husbandry-related stress.