Asian Forest Scorpion Diet Guide: What to Feed and How Often

Asian forest scorpions (Heterometrus species) are insect-eating ambush predators. In captivity, they usually do well with a simple rotation of live, gut-loaded feeder insects such as crickets, dubia or red runner roaches, and occasional mealworms or superworms. Roaches and crickets are often the most practical staples because they are easy to size correctly and can be fed a nutritious diet before being offered.

Variety matters more than chasing one “perfect” feeder. A mixed menu can help reduce nutritional gaps and may improve feeding response in picky scorpions. Feeder insects should be healthy, active, and appropriately sized. Avoid wild-caught insects because they may carry pesticides, parasites, or other contaminants.

Asian forest scorpions are nocturnal, so many pet parents get the best feeding response in the evening. Some individuals eat eagerly, while others may skip meals for days or even weeks, especially after rehoming, before a molt, or if enclosure temperature and humidity are off. That does not always mean there is a medical problem, but it does mean husbandry should be reviewed carefully.

A shallow water dish is part of the diet plan too. Even though these scorpions get some moisture from prey, they still need access to fresh water. If your scorpion stops eating, looks thin, struggles to molt, or seems weak, contact your vet for guidance rather than trying supplements or force-feeding at home.

For most adult Asian forest scorpions, a practical starting point is 1-3 appropriately sized feeder insects once every 7-14 days. Juveniles usually need smaller prey more often, often every 4-7 days. A common rule is to choose prey that is no longer than the scorpion's body length, and often smaller for young animals.

Body condition matters more than a rigid schedule. A scorpion with a very slim body may need food offered a bit more often, while a heavy-bodied adult that regularly refuses prey may do better with less frequent feeding. Overfeeding is not helpful. These animals are built for feast-and-famine cycles, and many can go longer between meals than new pet parents expect.

If you use crickets or roaches, offer one at a time or a small number you can monitor. Remove uneaten prey within 12-24 hours, and sooner if your scorpion is hiding, stressed, or preparing to molt. Live feeders can chew on vulnerable arthropods, especially during a molt.

Do not rely on mammal meat, table scraps, dog or cat food, or large amounts of fatty worms as the main diet. Those options do not match the natural feeding pattern well. If you are unsure whether your scorpion is underfed, overfed, gravid, or approaching a molt, your vet can help you assess body condition and husbandry.

A feeding problem is not always about the food itself. Asian forest scorpions may refuse meals if they are newly rehomed, too cool, too dry, disturbed too often, or nearing a molt. Short fasting periods can be normal. Still, there are times when appetite changes deserve closer attention.

Concerning signs include ongoing refusal to eat with visible weight loss, a shrunken or noticeably smaller abdomen, weakness, trouble walking, repeated failed strikes at prey, dehydration, or difficulty molting. Uneaten prey repeatedly left in the enclosure can also signal that prey size, prey type, or enclosure conditions need adjustment.

Molting problems are especially important. A scorpion that is lying oddly, stuck in a molt, or has soft, damaged body parts afterward needs prompt veterinary advice. Feeder insects should not be left with a scorpion that may be premolt or freshly molted.

See your vet immediately if your scorpion has severe weakness, obvious injury, a retained molt, parasites, or sudden collapse. If appetite has been poor for more than a few weeks and your scorpion also looks thinner or less responsive, schedule a visit with your vet to review husbandry and overall health.

If your scorpion is not interested in one feeder, try another appropriate live prey item rather than offering human food or wild insects. Good alternatives often include gut-loaded crickets, dubia roaches, red runner roaches, locusts where legal and available, and occasional mealworms or superworms for variety. Many scorpions show clear preferences.

For pet parents who want a lower-mess routine, roaches are often easier to manage than crickets and may survive longer in holding containers. If a prey item tends to burrow, tong-offering or supervised feeding may help. Some keepers use pre-killed insects for safety, but many Asian forest scorpions respond best to moving prey.

The safest “alternative” is often improving husbandry instead of changing foods repeatedly. Check enclosure humidity, temperature gradient, hiding spots, and stress level. A scorpion that feels secure is more likely to eat consistently.

Avoid wild-caught bugs, fireflies, pesticide-exposed insects, and oversized prey. If your scorpion has repeated feeding trouble, your vet can help you decide whether the issue is normal fasting, premolt behavior, or a medical concern.