Best Diet for Scorpions: What Pet Scorpions Should Really Eat

Scorpions are predators, so the best diet for most pet scorpions is a rotation of live, captive-raised feeder insects. In captivity, that usually means crickets, small roaches, mealworms, superworms in moderation, and occasional higher-fat treats like waxworms. Variety matters because no single feeder insect is perfectly balanced. A mixed menu can help reduce nutritional gaps and keep feeding behavior more natural.

Prey size matters as much as prey type. A good rule is to offer insects that are smaller than or roughly equal to the scorpion’s body length, not including the tail. Very large prey can be stressful, and active insects may bite or harass a scorpion that is weak, newly molted, or not interested in eating. If your scorpion ignores food, do not force the issue. Many healthy scorpions eat irregularly.

Whenever possible, use commercial feeder insects rather than wild-caught bugs. Wild insects may carry pesticide residues, parasites, or infectious organisms. Feeder insects should also be well cared for before feeding. In reptile and exotic-pet medicine, gut-loading insects with a nutritious diet and calcium support before offering them is standard practice, and that same approach can improve feeder quality for insect-eating exotic pets.

Human foods, dog or cat food, raw meat, and produce are not appropriate staple foods for scorpions. Some keepers offer the occasional pre-killed insect if a scorpion is shy, but live prey is usually preferred because it triggers a normal feeding response. Fresh water should always be available in a very shallow dish, even for desert species.

For many adult pet scorpions, a practical starting point is 2-4 appropriately sized feeder insects every 5-10 days. Smaller species may eat less, while large tropical species may take somewhat larger meals. Juveniles usually do better with smaller prey offered more often, often every 3-7 days. Feeding frequency also changes with enclosure temperature, species, age, and reproductive status.

A scorpion’s abdomen is a useful clue. It should look full but not dramatically swollen or tight. If the abdomen stays very thin, your scorpion may not be getting enough food, may be stressed, or may have a husbandry problem. If it becomes overly distended, cut back and review prey size and schedule with your vet. Scorpions can go surprisingly long periods without eating, so one skipped meal is not always a crisis.

Do not leave multiple insects loose in the enclosure for long periods. Uneaten prey can disturb a resting scorpion and may injure one that is preparing to molt. As a general safety step, remove uneaten insects within 12-24 hours. If your scorpion is sealed in a hide, lying low, or showing signs of premolt, it is safer to pause feeding and ask your vet if you are unsure.

For budgeting, feeder insects for one scorpion usually fall into a monthly cost range of about $5-$20 in the U.S. Bulk cricket or roach purchases may lower the cost range, while buying small quantities at a pet store often raises it.

A feeding problem does not always mean illness, but it does deserve attention. Concerning signs include refusing food for weeks with weight loss, a persistently shrunken abdomen, weakness, trouble walking, repeated failed hunting attempts, dehydration, or prey insects injuring the scorpion. A sudden appetite change can also point to stress from temperature, humidity, recent transport, or an upcoming molt.

Premolt can look like a problem at first. Many scorpions become less active, hide more, and stop eating before they shed. During this time, loose feeder insects can be risky. After molting, the new exoskeleton is soft, so feeding is usually delayed until the scorpion has hardened up. If you are not sure whether your scorpion is in premolt or is actually ill, your vet is the right person to help you sort that out.

Watch for husbandry-related red flags too. Repeated dehydration, foul odor in the enclosure, mites on feeder insects or around leftover food, and chronic refusal of one prey type may all signal a setup problem rather than a true diet preference. Wild-caught prey can also introduce toxins or parasites.

Contact your vet promptly if your scorpion has a collapsed-looking abdomen, cannot right itself, is injured by prey, has trouble after a molt, or has not eaten for an unusually long time and looks weaker or thinner. Appetite changes are most meaningful when they happen along with body-condition changes or abnormal behavior.

If your scorpion does not do well with one feeder insect, there are safer alternatives than trying human food. Good options to discuss with your vet include captive-raised crickets, dubia or other feeder roaches, mealworms, black soldier fly larvae, and occasional waxworms as a treat. Rotating feeders can improve enrichment and may reduce the chance that your scorpion relies too heavily on one high-fat or low-calcium prey item.

If live prey is difficult for you to manage, ask your vet whether your species may accept freshly killed insects offered with feeding tongs. Some scorpions will, and some will not. This can be helpful when a prey insect is especially active or when you want tighter control over feeding sessions. It is still important to use reputable feeder sources and not backyard insects.

For pet parents trying to keep costs manageable, buying feeder insects in small bulk batches and housing them correctly is often the most practical conservative care option. A typical cost range is $5-$20 per month for one scorpion, though larger collections cost more. The goal is not the fanciest feeder lineup. It is a safe, species-appropriate routine your household can maintain consistently.

If your scorpion is a picky eater, newly acquired, breeding, or recovering from a molt, your vet may suggest species-specific adjustments. Scorpions vary, and feeding plans should match the individual animal, not a one-size-fits-all schedule.