Scorpion Feeding Schedule and Portion Size Chart

Scorpions are carnivores, and in captivity they are usually fed live, commercially raised insects. Wild scorpions eat a variable diet that often includes insects and other small arthropods, and they can tolerate long gaps between meals because their metabolism is efficient when food is scarce. That said, pet scorpions usually do best with a steady, modest routine rather than large, infrequent meals.

For most pet parents, the safest plan is to match feeding to life stage and body condition. Juveniles usually need food more often because they are growing. Adults often maintain weight well on one or two feedings each week. Many keepers offer food at night, when scorpions are naturally more active. If your scorpion is approaching a molt, hiding more than usual, or refusing food for a short period, that can be normal.

Use captive-raised prey only. Feeder crickets, dubia roaches, red runner roaches, and occasional mealworms are common options. Variety helps reduce nutritional gaps. Insect prey should be well cared for before feeding, since prey quality affects the nutrition your scorpion receives. Fresh water should also be available in a shallow dish, even for desert species.

There is no single perfect chart for every scorpion species. Emperor scorpions, Asian forest scorpions, bark scorpions, and desert species can differ in size, activity, and appetite. If your scorpion is losing condition, refusing food for weeks outside of molt, or looks weak or dehydrated, schedule a visit with your vet, ideally one who sees exotic pets.

A safe starting point is to feed prey that is appropriately sized and stop before the enclosure has leftover insects roaming overnight. For small juveniles, offer 1 small prey item every 2-3 days. For subadults, 1-3 medium prey items every 3-5 days is a common starting range. For many adults, 2-5 appropriately sized insects total per week is reasonable, often split into 1-2 feedings.

As a portion guide, prey should usually be no longer than your scorpion's body length and should not be so large that it overwhelms the scorpion during capture. Large adults may take adult crickets or similar-sized roaches. Smaller species and young scorpions need pinhead or small crickets, small roaches, or cut prey if your vet advises it. If prey is ignored, remove it by the next morning so it does not stress a resting or molting scorpion.

A simple chart many pet parents can use is: juveniles every 2-3 days, subadults every 3-5 days, and adults every 5-7 days, with portion size based on prey size rather than a fixed number alone. Thin scorpions may need slightly more frequent feeding, while heavy-bodied adults may need less. Temperature matters too. Cooler enclosures often reduce appetite and digestion.

Overfeeding is not helpful. Some hobby sources note that feeding too often can push growth too quickly, which may complicate molting. If you are unsure whether your scorpion is at a healthy weight, ask your vet to review photos, species, molt history, and your current feeding log before you make major changes.

Watch for prey refusal that lasts longer than expected, a shrunken or thin-looking body, poor activity, trouble capturing prey, or repeated leftover insects after feeding. A short fast can be normal before a molt, after shipping, or during environmental stress. Ongoing refusal is more concerning if your scorpion also looks weak, dehydrated, or spends unusual time collapsed or unable to right itself.

Molting problems are one of the biggest feeding-related concerns. A scorpion that is preparing to molt may stop eating and become reclusive. During this time, live prey left in the enclosure can injure a vulnerable scorpion. After a molt, the new exoskeleton is soft, so feeding should wait until your scorpion has hardened and your vet or species-specific care guidance suggests it is safe.

Other red flags include a very swollen appearance from chronic overfeeding, repeated regurgitation of liquefied prey remains outside normal feeding behavior, foul enclosure conditions from uneaten insects, or signs of dehydration such as a flat-looking body and poor responsiveness. Husbandry problems, especially incorrect heat, humidity, or water access, often show up as feeding problems first.

See your vet immediately if your scorpion is unable to stand normally, has obvious injury from prey, is stuck in a molt, or has gone off food for an extended period with weight loss. Because appetite is tightly linked to enclosure conditions, bring details about temperature, humidity, prey type, feeding frequency, and recent molts to the visit.

If your current feeder insect is too large, too active, or often left uneaten, safer alternatives include smaller captive-raised crickets, small roaches, or other commercially produced feeder insects matched to your scorpion's size. Offering one prey item at a time can make feeding safer and easier to monitor. For shy scorpions, nighttime feeding and reducing enclosure disturbance may help.

Variety is usually safer than relying on one feeder forever. Rotating between crickets and roaches is a practical option for many pet parents. Occasional worms may be used for some species, but very fatty feeders should not become the whole diet. Wild-caught insects are not a safer alternative because they may carry pesticides, parasites, or toxins.

If live prey is difficult for you to manage, ask your vet whether your species may accept pre-killed prey offered with long tongs. Some scorpions will, but many hunt best when prey moves. Never leave oversized or aggressive prey in the enclosure with a molting or recently molted scorpion.

The safest long-term alternative is not a different insect. It is a better feeding system: species-appropriate prey, correct prey size, fresh water, clean enclosure conditions, and husbandry that supports normal appetite. If feeding has become inconsistent, your vet can help you build a realistic schedule that fits both your scorpion and your budget.