Safe Feeder Insects for Scorpions: Crickets, Roaches, Worms, and More

Scorpions are insect-eating predators, so feeder insects can be a safe and appropriate food choice when they are commercially raised, properly sized, and offered in moderation. In captivity, the most commonly used feeders are crickets and roaches. Mealworms, superworms, waxworms, hornworms, and occasional earthworms may also be used for variety. Wild scorpions eat a wide range of invertebrates, and captive diets usually work best when they reflect that variety instead of relying on one feeder forever.

Crickets are easy to find and usually trigger a strong feeding response. Roaches, including dubia roaches where legal, are also widely used because they are meaty, easy to gut-load, and less likely to smell than crickets. Worms can be useful rotation feeders, but they are not all equal. Mealworms and superworms are higher in fat than many pet parents realize, while waxworms are especially rich and are usually better as occasional treats rather than a staple.

The safest approach is to buy feeders from reputable sources, keep them clean, and feed them a nutritious diet before offering them to your scorpion. This is called gut-loading. It does not turn a poor feeder into a perfect one, but it can improve the nutritional value of crickets, roaches, and some worms. Avoid insects collected outdoors, glowing fireflies, and any prey that may have been exposed to lawn chemicals, pest sprays, or bait products.

Feeding safety is also about behavior, not only nutrition. A prey item that is too large, too active, or left in the enclosure too long can stress or injure a scorpion, especially during a molt. If your scorpion stops eating, acts weak, or seems unable to catch prey, it is a good time to check husbandry and contact your vet for species-specific guidance.

For most pet scorpions, a practical starting point is 1-3 appropriately sized feeder insects once or twice weekly. Smaller juveniles often eat more often than adults, while large adult scorpions may eat only every 7-14 days. A good prey-size rule is to offer insects that are no longer than your scorpion's body length, and often smaller is safer for young or shy animals.

There is no single perfect schedule for every species. Desert species, tropical forest species, juveniles, adults, and recently molted scorpions all have different needs. Many healthy scorpions also go through normal periods of reduced appetite. Because of that, it is better to watch your individual scorpion's body condition, feeding response, and molt cycle than to force a rigid schedule.

If you are offering crickets or roaches, many pet parents start with one prey item and see whether it is taken promptly. If your scorpion is actively hunting and finishes quickly, your vet may suggest offering another similar-sized insect. Richer feeders like waxworms are usually best kept occasional. Mealworms and superworms can be part of a rotation, but they should not crowd out leaner staple insects.

Feeder insect costs are usually manageable, but they vary by source and quantity. In 2025-2026 US stores, small cups of crickets or mealworms often run about $3-$8, while roach assortments commonly run $8-$25. Buying mixed feeders can help you offer variety without overstocking one insect your scorpion may ignore.

A feeding problem is not always an emergency, because scorpions can naturally go for stretches without eating. Still, some signs deserve closer attention. Watch for repeated refusal of food outside a normal premolt period, obvious weight loss or a shrunken abdomen, trouble grasping prey, weakness, poor coordination, or prey insects injuring or harassing the scorpion.

Digestive or husbandry-related concerns may show up as regurgitation-like fluid, foul enclosure conditions, dehydration, lethargy, or a scorpion that stays collapsed and unresponsive. Problems can also start with the feeder insects themselves. Wild-caught bugs, oversized prey, or insects left loose in the enclosure too long can increase the risk of stress, injury, or contamination.

Molting is a special situation. A scorpion that is preparing to molt or has recently molted is especially vulnerable. During that time, live prey can be dangerous. If you suspect a molt is coming, it is safest to avoid offering prey and to review humidity, hiding spots, and other husbandry details with your vet.

See your vet immediately if your scorpion is injured, unable to right itself, has severe weakness, is being attacked by feeder insects, or shows sudden collapse. If appetite changes last more than a couple of weeks and you are not sure whether premolt or species behavior explains it, your vet can help you sort out diet versus enclosure problems.

If your scorpion does not do well with one feeder insect, there are other options to discuss with your vet. Dubia roaches or other legally available feeder roaches are often a good alternative to crickets because they are easy to keep, less noisy, and commonly accepted by many scorpions. For pet parents who want variety, rotating between roaches, crickets, and occasional worms is often more useful than searching for one perfect feeder.

For smaller scorpions or juveniles, smaller prey such as pinhead crickets or small roach nymphs may be safer than trying to offer a large insect. For reluctant feeders, some keepers use pre-killed or tong-offered prey to reduce the risk of the insect fighting back or hiding in the substrate. That can be especially helpful with burrowing worms or roaches that disappear before the scorpion notices them.

Worms can still have a place in the diet. Mealworms, superworms, hornworms, and waxworms may all be used selectively, but they are usually best treated as rotation feeders rather than the only food source. Earthworms may be accepted by some species and offer a different nutrient profile, though they can be messy and are not ideal for every setup.

If your scorpion regularly refuses food, the answer is not always a new insect. Temperature, humidity, stress, recent rehoming, premolt behavior, and enclosure design all affect appetite. Your vet can help you decide whether a different feeder, a different feeding method, or a husbandry adjustment is the safest next step.