What Do Scorpions Eat? Complete Pet Scorpion Feeding Guide

Scorpions are carnivorous arachnids, not reptiles or insects. In the wild, they usually hunt other invertebrates and sometimes very small vertebrates, depending on species and size. In human care, most pet scorpions thrive on captive-raised feeder insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, and occasional waxworms or other soft-bodied prey. Zoo and husbandry references also note that scorpions naturally feed on insects and spiders, which matches what most pet parents offer in captivity.

A varied feeder rotation is usually more useful than relying on one insect forever. Crickets and roaches are common staples because they move well and trigger a feeding response. Mealworms and superworms can be offered, but they are often better as part of a rotation rather than the only food source. Waxworms are very fatty, so they are better used as occasional treats than routine staples.

Feeder quality matters. In exotic animal medicine, gut-loading insects before feeding is a standard way to improve nutrition, and calcium dusting is commonly recommended for insect-eating species. While scorpion-specific research is limited, this same husbandry principle can be a practical option for growing juveniles or breeding animals when guided by your vet. Wild-caught insects are a poor choice because they may carry pesticides, parasites, or injuries that can harm your scorpion.

Species differences matter too. Desert species may eat less often than tropical forest species, and many scorpions naturally go through periods of reduced appetite, especially before a molt. A scorpion that skips meals for a short time may still be normal if body condition, posture, and enclosure conditions remain appropriate.

For most adult pet scorpions, a practical starting point is 1-3 appropriately sized feeder insects about once a week. Smaller adults may take one medium cricket or roach, while larger species may take two or three prey items. Juveniles usually do better with smaller prey offered more often, often every 2-3 days. The safest rule is prey size: offer insects no larger than your scorpion can easily overpower.

Avoid overfeeding. Scorpions have slow metabolisms and can go surprisingly long periods without food. Constantly leaving prey in the enclosure can stress the scorpion, especially around molting, and live insects may bite or disturb a vulnerable animal. If your scorpion does not eat within about 12-24 hours, remove uneaten prey and try again later.

Feeding at dusk or at night often works best because many scorpions are nocturnal hunters. Tongs can help with some individuals, but many feed more naturally when prey is released nearby in a controlled way. Fresh water should still be available in a shallow dish when appropriate for the species, even though many scorpions get part of their moisture from prey and enclosure humidity.

If you are unsure how much your individual scorpion should eat, ask your vet to help you tailor a schedule based on species, age, molt stage, body condition, and enclosure temperature. Appetite often drops when temperatures, humidity, or hiding space are not right, so feeding problems are not always caused by the food itself.

A missed meal is not always an emergency in a scorpion. Many healthy scorpions eat irregularly, and appetite often decreases before a molt. What matters more is the full picture: body condition, activity, posture, hydration, and whether the enclosure setup matches the species. If your scorpion refuses food for more than a couple of weeks, loses condition, seems weak, or has trouble moving, it is time to contact your vet.

Warning signs include a shrunken or wrinkled abdomen, repeated inability to catch prey, dragging limbs, poor coordination, prolonged lethargy outside normal hiding behavior, or visible injury from feeder insects. Trouble after a molt is especially concerning. A freshly molted scorpion is soft and vulnerable, so live prey left in the enclosure can cause serious damage.

Digestive or husbandry problems may show up as regurgitation-like fluid loss, foul odor, collapse, abnormal curling, or sudden refusal to feed after a recent enclosure change. Parasites, dehydration, incorrect humidity, overheating, and trauma can all affect appetite. Because these signs are nonspecific, your vet may need photos of the enclosure, temperature and humidity readings, and a detailed feeding history.

See your vet immediately if your scorpion is stuck in a molt, has been injured by prey, cannot right itself, or appears severely weak or dehydrated. Exotic pets often hide illness until they are quite sick, so early veterinary guidance matters.

If your scorpion is a picky eater or struggles with large, active prey, safer alternatives usually mean changing feeder type, size, or presentation rather than changing away from an insect-based diet. Smaller crickets, small dubia roaches, red runner roaches where legal, chopped mealworms, or freshly killed prey can all be reasonable options depending on species and age. Newly molted juveniles and weak animals may do better with smaller, less aggressive feeders.

Captive-raised insects are the safest routine choice. They are easier to size correctly and are less likely to carry pesticides than wild-caught bugs. Many pet parents also find that rotating feeders improves acceptance and may provide a broader nutrient profile. If one prey item is refused, try another staple insect before assuming your scorpion is ill.

For scorpions that are stressed by loose prey, feeding in the evening, using soft-tipped tongs, or placing prey close to the hide entrance may help. Some keepers use pre-killed insects for vulnerable juveniles or post-molt animals to reduce injury risk. That said, not every scorpion accepts non-moving food, so this approach should be individualized.

Avoid human foods, raw meat, dairy, fruits, vegetables, and seasoned foods. These do not match a scorpion's natural diet and can spoil quickly in the enclosure. If your scorpion repeatedly refuses multiple safe feeder options, ask your vet to review husbandry and rule out illness before making major diet changes.