Blue Bloom Birdeater: Health, Temperament, Care & Costs

The Blue Bloom Birdeater, also sold as the Amazon Blue Bloom tarantula, is generally identified in the hobby as Xenesthis intermedia. This is a large New World terrestrial tarantula from tropical South America with striking blue-purple iridescence, heavy body build, and a tendency to use a hide or shallow burrow. Adult diagonal leg span is often listed around 6 to 9 inches, with females living much longer than males. Females may reach roughly 15 to 20 years, while males often live about 3 to 4 years after maturity.

In temperament, this species is better thought of as a display tarantula than a handling pet. Many individuals are shy at first, but they can be fast, defensive when startled, and capable of kicking urticating hairs. Like other large terrestrial tarantulas, they are also physically fragile. A short fall can cause serious injury, so routine handling is not recommended.

For pet parents, the appeal is clear: dramatic color, impressive size, and relatively straightforward tropical husbandry once the enclosure is set up well. The tradeoff is that this is not usually the best first tarantula for someone who wants frequent interaction. It tends to do best with secure housing, stable moisture, a water dish, and minimal disturbance.

Blue Bloom Birdeaters do not have breed-specific inherited diseases in the way dogs and cats do, but they are still vulnerable to husbandry-related illness and injury. The biggest risks in captivity are dehydration, poor molt success, trauma from falls, and stress from excessive handling or repeated enclosure disturbance. In tropical tarantulas, chronically dry conditions can contribute to dehydration and difficult molts, while overly wet, stagnant setups can increase stress and sanitation problems.

Molting problems are one of the most important health concerns to watch for. A tarantula nearing molt may refuse food, become less active, darken in color, and spend more time on a silk mat or inside its hide. During this period, prey should not be left in the enclosure, and your tarantula should not be disturbed. If a molt appears incomplete, your vet should guide next steps because forceful home intervention can worsen injury.

Physical trauma is another major issue. A terrestrial tarantula can rupture the abdomen after a fall from even a modest height, and that can become life-threatening very quickly. Hair kicking, defensive posturing, and sudden darting are also signs that the spider is stressed. If you notice lethargy outside of premolt, a tightly curled posture, fluid loss, foul odor, white material around the mouthparts, or inability to right itself, see your vet promptly for exotic-pet guidance.

The Blue Bloom Birdeater is usually a specialty tarantula rather than a bargain beginner species, so the upfront cost range can be wide. In the US hobby market in 2025-2026, small captive-bred spiderlings may start around $40 to $100 wholesale and often land around $60 to $150+ retail, while larger juveniles commonly run about $150 to $250. Sexed or established females can cost much more, often $350 to $600+ depending on size, availability, and lineage.

Setup costs are usually moderate compared with the animal itself. A secure terrestrial enclosure, substrate, hide, water dish, and basic maintenance tools often total about $60 to $180. Ongoing monthly costs are usually low, often $5 to $20 for feeder insects, substrate replacement, and routine supplies. Electricity costs may rise if you need to warm the room in winter, but direct heat sources inside or under the enclosure are usually avoided because they can create unsafe hot spots.

Veterinary costs are the wildcard. Many tarantulas need little routine medical care, but exotic appointments can still add up. A basic exotic consultation may run about $80 to $180, with higher costs if diagnostics, wound care, hospitalization, or emergency support are needed. Before bringing one home, it helps to confirm that your vet or a nearby exotic practice is comfortable seeing arachnids.

Blue Bloom Birdeaters are insectivores. In captivity, most do well on appropriately sized feeder insects such as crickets, roaches, and occasional mealworms or superworms. Prey should be smaller than the tarantula's body length and easy to overpower. Overfeeding is not helpful, especially in sedentary terrestrial species, so meal size and frequency should match age, body condition, and molt cycle.

Spiderlings usually eat more often than adults. A young tarantula may take food every 5 to 7 days, while juveniles and adults may eat every 1 to 2 weeks, sometimes less. It is normal for tarantulas to fast before a molt, and some may refuse food for extended periods without this meaning they are sick. Uneaten live prey should be removed, especially if your tarantula is in premolt.

Fresh water matters as much as food. A shallow, clean water dish should always be available, with extra attention to preventing drowning risk for very small spiderlings. Good hydration supports normal body function and successful molting. If your tarantula stops eating, loses condition, or shows mouthpart discharge or weakness, your vet should help determine whether this is normal premolt behavior or a medical concern.

Tarantulas do not need exercise sessions the way dogs, cats, or ferrets do. A Blue Bloom Birdeater gets its activity through normal enclosure behavior such as walking, exploring at night, digging, webbing lightly, and repositioning around its hide. The goal is not to encourage more movement. The goal is to provide enough safe space for natural behavior without creating fall risk.

For this species, a horizontally oriented enclosure is usually best. Floor space matters more than height because large terrestrial tarantulas can be badly injured if they climb and fall. Deep enough substrate for a shallow burrow, a secure hide, and low-risk decor support normal activity while keeping stress down.

Handling should not be used as enrichment. Most tarantulas do not enjoy being handled, and the process can increase stress for the spider while also exposing the pet parent to urticating hairs or a defensive bite. Quiet observation after dark is often the best way to appreciate this species' normal behavior.

Preventive care for a Blue Bloom Birdeater is mostly about husbandry. Keep the enclosure secure, well ventilated, and appropriate for a tropical terrestrial species. Provide a water dish at all times, maintain substrate that holds some moisture without becoming swampy, and avoid sharp decor or excessive climbing height. Stable conditions are usually safer than frequent changes.

Routine observation is your best wellness tool. Watch for changes in appetite, posture, movement, abdomen size, hair loss pattern, and molt timing. A tarantula that is resting on its back may be molting, not dying, so context matters. By contrast, a spider that is weak, unresponsive, leaking fluid, or tightly curled under itself needs prompt attention.

Good preventive care also means minimizing stress. Avoid routine handling, loud vibration, repeated rehousing, and leaving feeder insects in the enclosure too long. If you are new to tarantulas or notice anything unusual, schedule a visit with your vet or an exotic animal practice early. Small husbandry corrections made sooner are often more helpful than waiting until a crisis develops.