What to Feed a Baby Tarantula: Sling Nutrition and Feeding Schedule

Baby tarantulas, often called slings, are insect-eaters. In captivity, they usually do well with tiny prey that is easy to catch and unlikely to fight back. Common options include flightless fruit flies for very small slings, pinhead crickets, tiny roach nymphs, confused flour beetles, and small pieces of pre-killed mealworm or cricket. Many keepers start with pre-killed prey for the smallest slings because it lowers the chance of injury.

The best feeder size depends on the sling, not the label on the insect cup. A good rule is to offer prey that is about the size of the sling's abdomen, or no more than roughly half to two-thirds of the sling's body length. If prey is larger than that, pre-killing or cutting it into a smaller piece is safer. Live crickets and other feeders can bite or stress a molting tarantula, so size matters.

Feeding frequency is flexible. A reasonable starting point is every 3 to 4 days for tiny slings and once or twice weekly for somewhat larger spiderlings. Some species grow quickly and eat eagerly, while others are slower and may refuse food for days or weeks, especially before a molt. Refusing a meal once does not always mean something is wrong.

Hydration and husbandry also affect appetite. A sling that is too dry, too wet, too cool, or stressed may stop eating. Your vet can help if your tarantula has ongoing appetite loss, repeated bad molts, shrinking abdomen size, or weakness.

For most slings, one appropriately sized prey item per feeding is enough to start. If you are using very tiny prey like fruit flies, you may offer a few at a time so the sling has a realistic chance to catch one. If you are using pre-killed prey, offer a small piece and check later to see whether it was eaten before adding more.

Watch the abdomen, not the clock alone. A healthy sling often has an abdomen that looks rounded but not stretched tight. If the abdomen is getting much larger than the carapace, feeding less often may be safer. Overly heavy tarantulas may have more trouble with falls and molting. On the other hand, a noticeably shrunken abdomen can mean the sling needs food, water, or a husbandry review.

Do not keep adding insects because the sling looks interested. Tarantulas are opportunistic feeders, and a strong feeding response does not always mean they need more. Leaving multiple live feeders in a small enclosure can stress the sling and raises the risk of injury during premolt or molting.

After a molt, hold food until the new exoskeleton hardens. For many slings this is at least 24 to 48 hours, and some keepers wait until the fangs are clearly dark rather than pale. If you are unsure whether your sling is ready, it is safer to wait a bit longer and ask your vet if the spider seems weak or cannot stand normally.

A single skipped meal is often normal in tarantulas, especially before a molt. More concerning signs include a steadily shrinking abdomen, weakness, trouble walking, inability to right itself, repeated falls, or a sling that stays curled and unresponsive. These signs can point to dehydration, injury, poor husbandry, or serious illness.

Feeding-related problems can also show up as prey injuries. If you see wounds, leaking fluid, missing leg tips, or a sling being harassed by live feeders, remove the prey right away. Uneaten insects left in the enclosure are especially risky when a tarantula is in premolt or actively molting.

Molting trouble is another red flag. If your sling is stuck in a molt, has deformed legs after molting, or does not regain normal posture afterward, contact your vet promptly. Appetite loss that lasts beyond an expected premolt period, especially with weight loss or a small abdomen, also deserves attention.

See your vet immediately if your sling is collapsed, bleeding, trapped in a bad molt, or has severe weakness. Because tarantulas are delicate and exotic, early guidance is often more helpful than waiting for clearer signs.

If live prey seems too large or too active, pre-killed feeders are often the safest alternative for tiny slings. You can offer a freshly crushed pinhead cricket, a small roach nymph, or a tiny piece of mealworm. This lets the sling feed without having to overpower prey that could bite back.

For very small species or newly established slings, flightless fruit flies are a practical option. They are easy to culture, inexpensive over time, and small enough for many delicate spiderlings. Some keepers also use confused flour beetles or their larvae for species that accept them readily.

Variety can help, but dramatic diet changes are not always necessary. Rotating between a few safe feeder types may improve acceptance and reduce dependence on one insect source. Avoid wild-caught insects because they may carry pesticides, parasites, or other contaminants.

If your sling repeatedly refuses food, the answer is not always a different feeder. Review moisture, ventilation, temperature, hiding space, and molt timing first. Your vet can help you sort out whether the issue is diet, husbandry, or a medical concern.