Best Feeder Insects for Tarantulas: Crickets, Roaches, Mealworms, and More

Tarantulas do best on a varied diet of live, captive-raised feeder insects. For most pet parents, crickets and dubia roaches are the most practical staples because they are easy to source, active enough to trigger a feeding response, and available in many sizes. Mealworms and superworms can work well for variety, while hornworms may be useful as an occasional moisture-rich feeder for larger spiders.

The best feeder is not always the same for every tarantula. Species, age, body size, hunting style, and temperament all matter. A shy burrowing tarantula may ignore fast-moving prey, while a bold terrestrial species may readily take crickets or roaches. In general, prey should be smaller than the tarantula's body length, excluding legs, and should come from a reliable feeder colony rather than from outdoors.

Nutrition also depends on the insect itself. Veterinary nutrition references for insect-eating species note that feeder insects differ in protein, fat, and mineral balance. Crickets are commonly used and reasonably lean, while mealworms are higher in fat and have a poor calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, which is one reason they are often better as part of a rotation instead of the only feeder. Gut-loading feeder insects before offering them can improve their overall nutritional value.

Avoid assuming that a tarantula needs to eat often to stay healthy. Many healthy tarantulas eat infrequently, especially adults. Refusing food can be normal before a molt, during seasonal slowdowns, or after a large meal. If your tarantula is otherwise active for its species, has a normal abdomen size, and is not showing signs of injury or dehydration, a missed meal is not always a problem.

A safe starting point is one appropriately sized feeder once weekly for many adults and smaller meals every 2 to 4 days for juveniles. Slings and very small juveniles may need tiny prey more often, such as flightless fruit flies, pinhead crickets, or pre-killed insect portions, depending on species and size. Feeding in the evening often works best because many tarantulas are more active at night.

Prey size matters as much as feeding frequency. A common rule is to offer insects no longer than the tarantula's body length, not counting the legs. Oversized prey may be refused, may stress the spider, or in some cases may injure a tarantula that is weak, in pre-molt, or freshly molted. If your tarantula is a slow or hesitant eater, smaller prey is often the safer choice.

Do not feed during a molt or right after one. Newly molted tarantulas have soft exoskeletons and delicate fangs. Many care references recommend waiting about 7 to 10 days after a molt before offering food to larger tarantulas, though exact timing can vary with age and size. Water should still be available in a shallow dish.

If you are unsure whether your tarantula is getting too much or too little food, ask your vet to help you assess body condition, molt history, and species-specific feeding habits. That approach is safer than forcing a rigid schedule.

Feeding problems in tarantulas are often subtle. Concerning signs include persistent refusal to eat outside of an obvious pre-molt period, a shrinking or wrinkled abdomen, trouble capturing prey, repeated dropping of food, visible fang injury, or prey insects bothering the tarantula without a feeding response. Mites, foul odor, or mold in the enclosure can also interfere with feeding and overall health.

Some signs are more urgent. A tarantula that is unable to right itself, has active bleeding from an injury, shows difficulty molting, or remains weak and motionless for an unusual length of time should be evaluated promptly. Live feeder insects left in the enclosure can worsen the situation by chewing on a vulnerable spider, especially during pre-molt or after a molt.

Not every skipped meal means something is wrong. Many tarantulas fast before molting, and adults may eat less often than new pet parents expect. The context matters: recent molt, species, age, enclosure temperature, stress, and prey type can all affect appetite.

If your tarantula has stopped eating and you are not sure whether it is normal pre-molt behavior, see your vet promptly. That is especially important if appetite loss comes with weight loss, dehydration, injury, or a recent husbandry change.

If your tarantula does not do well with crickets, dubia roaches are often the easiest alternative. They are nutritious, quiet, less likely to climb smooth surfaces, and many pet parents find them easier to manage than crickets. For smaller tarantulas, small roach nymphs, pinhead crickets, or fruit flies may be more appropriate than standard feeders.

For variety, you can rotate in mealworms, superworms, or hornworms when size is appropriate. Mealworms are convenient and easy to keep, but they are usually best used as an occasional feeder rather than the only staple. Hornworms can help with hydration because of their moisture content, but they grow quickly and may become too large fast.

Pre-killed prey can be a useful option for shy slings, injured tarantulas, or spiders that are interested in food but reluctant to tackle active prey. Crushing the insect's head or offering a freshly killed feeder may reduce injury risk while still providing a feeding opportunity. This can be especially helpful during transitions between feeder types.

The least safe alternatives are wild-caught insects, fireflies or other glowing insects, and oversized prey. Wild insects may carry pesticides or parasites, and glowing insects are widely considered dangerous for many insect-eating pets. When in doubt, ask your vet which feeder rotation makes sense for your tarantula's species, size, and molt pattern.