Brunner's Stick Mantis: Care, Identification & Species Facts

Brunner's stick mantis (Brunneria borealis) is a slender North American mantis known for its twig-like shape and calm, ambush-predator behavior. It is usually identified by its long narrow body, grass-matching green to tan coloration, and reduced wings in adult females. BugGuide lists the species at about 65-90 mm long, which is roughly 2.6-3.5 inches, though some captive keepers report larger adults under ideal feeding conditions.

This species is especially interesting because it is widely described as reproducing by parthenogenesis, meaning females can produce viable eggs without males. In practical pet care terms, that means a single adult may still lay an ootheca. Brunner's stick mantis is native to the southern United States and is associated with grassy habitats, where its camouflage helps it disappear during the day.

For pet parents, this is a display insect rather than a hands-on pet. It does best in a secure, well-ventilated enclosure with vertical climbing space, moderate warmth, and prey items sized to the mantis. Gentle observation is usually better than handling, because mantises can be injured by falls, rough contact, or poor molting conditions.

Brunner's stick mantises do not have breed-specific inherited diseases documented the way dogs and cats do, but they are very sensitive to husbandry errors. The most common problems in captive mantises are failed molts, dehydration, injury after a fall, and starvation from prey that is too large, too small, or nutritionally poor. Low humidity at the wrong time, crowding, and inadequate vertical space can all increase molting risk.

A mantis that hangs low, cannot grip well, misses prey repeatedly, has bent legs or wings after a molt, or appears shrunken may be in trouble. Refusal to eat is not always an emergency, especially before a molt, but ongoing appetite loss with weakness is more concerning. Mold growth, dirty feeder cultures, and poor airflow can also contribute to illness or death in insect pets.

Because praying mantises are fragile exotics, there is rarely a single treatment path once a serious problem starts. Your vet may be able to help with supportive care, enclosure review, and guidance on hydration or humane euthanasia if quality of life is poor. Early correction of temperature, humidity, prey size, and enclosure safety usually matters more than trying to fix a crisis later.

Brunner's stick mantis is usually a lower-cost exotic pet compared with reptiles or small mammals, but costs still add up. Recent US seller listings place captive Brunneria borealis in roughly the $37.50-$60 range per animal, depending on life stage and availability. A basic setup with a ventilated enclosure, climbing surfaces, thermometer-hygrometer, and misting supplies often adds another $30-$100.

Monthly care is usually modest. Feeder insects commonly run about $5-$20 per month for one mantis, depending on whether you buy fruit flies, house flies, roaches, or maintain your own feeder cultures. Replacement supplies such as substrate liner, feeder cups, and occasional enclosure upgrades may add another $5-$15 monthly.

Veterinary care is the least predictable part of the budget. Many general practices do not see insects, so exotic consultation fees can be hard to estimate and may exceed the mantis's purchase cost. Pet parents should plan for a realistic cost range of about $60-$160 to get started, then around $10-$35 per month for routine care, with extra funds set aside in case you need an exotic-animal appointment.

Brunner's stick mantis is an insectivore. In captivity, it is typically fed live prey such as fruit flies for small nymphs and larger flying or crawling insects as it grows. Captive keepers report good acceptance of fruit flies and blue bottle flies, and larger juveniles or adults may take appropriately sized roaches, flies, or other feeder insects. As a rule, prey should be no larger than the mantis can safely subdue.

Variety matters. Feeding only one insect type for long periods may increase the risk of nutritional imbalance. Guidance from exotic animal nutrition sources also supports the idea that feeder quality affects predator nutrition, so using healthy, well-fed feeder insects is important. Many insectivorous exotic pets benefit when feeders are gut-loaded before use, and that same principle is reasonable for mantis care.

Offer prey every day or every other day for growing nymphs, and less often for adults depending on body condition and feeding response. Avoid wild-caught insects from areas that may have pesticide exposure. Remove uneaten prey if it is stressing the mantis, especially around a molt, because active feeders can injure a vulnerable insect.

Brunner's stick mantis does not need exercise in the way mammals or birds do, but it does need space to climb, hunt, and choose secure resting spots. A taller enclosure is usually more important than a wide one because mantises rely on vertical surfaces for hanging and molting. Branches, twigs, mesh, or other textured climbing structures help support normal movement.

This species is an ambush predator, so much of its activity is quiet and deliberate. You may notice more movement at dusk or night, especially when it is exploring or positioning for prey. Enrichment is less about toys and more about creating a safe, naturalistic environment with visual cover, airflow, and varied perches.

Handling should be limited. Falls can be serious, especially from adult height or during the days before and after a molt. If your mantis seems inactive but is gripping well, maintaining posture, and eating appropriately, that can still be normal behavior for the species.

Preventive care for Brunner's stick mantis is mostly husbandry care. Keep the enclosure clean, dry enough to prevent mold, but humid enough to support normal hydration and molting. Good ventilation is essential. Light misting or access to water droplets on enclosure surfaces is commonly used for mantises, but the exact schedule should match the enclosure's airflow and your mantis's life stage.

Check your mantis daily for grip strength, posture, appetite, and signs of an upcoming molt. Before a molt, many mantises eat less and become more still. During that time, avoid handling and make sure there is enough unobstructed vertical space for a full hang. Remove aggressive feeder insects if they are bothering the mantis.

Preventive care also means buying from reputable captive breeders when possible and avoiding pesticide exposure. If you use décor from outdoors, clean it carefully and do not introduce plants or branches that may carry chemicals, mites, or mold. If your mantis shows repeated feeding trouble, abnormal molts, or weakness, contact your vet for species-appropriate guidance.