Best Feeder Insects for Praying Mantises

The best feeder insect changes as your mantis grows. Very small nymphs usually do best with flightless or wingless fruit flies. Drosophila melanogaster works well for the tiniest hatchlings, while Drosophila hydei is better once the nymph is a little larger. Several mantis care sources note that young nymphs can be raised successfully on fruit flies alone for their early molts.

For mid-sized nymphs, house flies, curly-wing flies, and small bottle flies are often the easiest upgrade. These insects trigger a strong feeding response because they move actively. For larger nymphs and adults, blue bottle flies and green bottle flies are widely used, and many larger mantis species also take small roaches. Some species, especially flower mantises and stick mantises, may continue to do best on mostly flying prey even when adult.

• Fruit flies (D. melanogaster): Best for hatchlings and tiny first instars.
• Fruit flies (D. hydei): Best for larger early nymphs.
• House flies / curly-wing flies: Good bridge prey for juveniles learning to chase larger food.
• Blue bottle flies / green bottle flies: One of the best staple feeders for many juvenile and adult mantises.
• Small dubia or similar roaches: Useful for larger species that accept non-flying prey.
• Small locusts or grasshoppers: Appropriate for some larger mantises when prey size is carefully matched.
• Crickets: Can be used by some keepers, but many mantis specialists use them more cautiously than flies because flies are often better accepted and some sources advise avoiding poorly kept crickets.

If your mantis ignores ground prey, try offering a fly first. Species that hunt in open air or on foliage often lock onto flying insects much faster than crawling feeders.

Prey size matters as much as prey species. A feeder insect should usually be smaller than or roughly equal to the mantis's abdomen length. Oversized prey can stress the mantis, cause missed strikes, or in some cases fight back. This is especially important right after a molt, when the mantis is soft and vulnerable.

If you are unsure, choose the smaller option and feed more often rather than offering one oversized insect. Watch the abdomen after meals. A gently rounded abdomen usually means the meal size was appropriate, while a very flat abdomen may mean your mantis needs food sooner. A very swollen abdomen can mean you should wait longer before the next feeding.

Most young nymphs eat every day or every other day. Older nymphs often do well every other day, and adults commonly eat every 3 to 5 days, depending on species, temperature, prey size, and body condition. Males are often slimmer and may need smaller, more frequent meals than heavy-bodied females.

Do not force a rigid schedule if your mantis is preparing to molt. Many mantises refuse food before a shed. Remove uneaten prey if it may disturb a molting mantis, especially active feeders like crickets or larger roaches.

Wild-caught insects are risky because they may carry pesticides, parasites, or environmental contaminants. Avoid feeding fireflies or other insects known to be toxic to insect-eating pets. Very hard-bodied beetles, oversized mealworms, or prey with strong jaws can also be poor choices for many mantises.

Crickets are commonly sold and can be used for some larger mantises, but they are not always the first choice. They can bite, hide in the enclosure, and may stress a mantis during a molt if left unattended. If you use crickets, choose small, healthy feeders from a reliable source and remove any uneaten insects promptly.

Yes. Gut-loading means feeding your feeder insects a nutritious diet before offering them to your mantis. This is most useful for roaches and crickets, and it can improve the overall quality of the meal. Commercial feeder care sheets commonly recommend maintaining feeders on a quality insect diet and fresh produce before use.

Fruit fly cultures come on prepared media, while bottle flies are often purchased as pupae and used soon after emergence, so gut-loading is less flexible with those feeders. Even so, buying from reputable insect suppliers and rotating prey types can help support a more balanced feeding routine.

For one mantis, feeder costs are usually manageable but vary by prey type and shipping. In March 2026, common online US ranges include about $5-$7 for a fruit fly culture, $2.75-$6 for blue bottle fly pupae depending on quantity and seller, and about $6-$7 for small dubia roaches. Shipping can add noticeably to the total, so many pet parents save money by culturing fruit flies at home or ordering several feeder items together.

A small nymph raised mostly on fruit flies may cost around $10-$20 per month to feed. A larger juvenile or adult eating bottle flies and occasional roaches may run about $15-$35 per month, especially if live insect shipping is needed.

For most praying mantises, flies are the best staple feeders because they match natural hunting behavior and are accepted readily. Start tiny nymphs on fruit flies, move growing mantises to house flies or bottle flies, and use small roaches or other suitable prey for larger species that take non-flying food well.

The best feeding plan is the one that fits your mantis's species, size, and behavior. If your mantis is not eating, is losing condition, or seems weak after a molt, contact an exotics-focused veterinarian for guidance.