Burns in Crested Geckos: Heat Pad and Lamp Injuries

See your vet immediately if you think your crested gecko has been burned. A burn is tissue damage caused by too much heat touching the skin or radiating onto it. In crested geckos, this most often happens from enclosure heating equipment such as exposed bulbs, overheated screen tops, ceramic heat emitters, hot rocks, or heat pads that create unsafe surface temperatures.

Burns in reptiles are often called thermal burns. They may be mild and limited to the outer skin, or they may extend deeper into the tissues. One tricky part is that reptile burns do not always show their full severity right away. The damaged area can continue to change over the next couple of days, so a spot that first looks like discoloration can later blister, crack, or become an open wound.

Because crested geckos are climbers, they are at special risk around warm mesh lids, dome fixtures placed too close to the enclosure, and any heat source they can reach while jumping. Their delicate skin can be injured by direct contact or by staying too close to a hot area for too long.

Burns are painful and can lead to dehydration, infection, trouble shedding, and scarring. Early veterinary care gives your gecko the best chance for healing and helps your vet decide whether wound care alone is enough or whether pain control, fluids, antibiotics, assisted feeding, or more advanced care are needed.

Most burns in crested geckos happen because a heat source is too hot, too close, poorly controlled, or physically reachable. Merck notes that reptile burns may be caused by unscreened incandescent lights or other heat sources. PetMD also warns that reptiles can be burned by radiant heat, direct contact heat, and unsafe enclosure setups, especially when lamps are inside the enclosure or when hot rocks are used.

For crested geckos, common causes include exposed bulbs inside the tank, ceramic heat emitters or domes resting too close to the screen top, overheated mesh lids that the gecko climbs on, and under-tank or side-mounted heat pads that create hot spots. VCA advises that reptiles can be burned by heat lights if they can get too close, and it discourages hot rocks because they can create dangerous hot spots.

Crested geckos are also vulnerable because they climb, jump, and rest upside down on enclosure tops. A setup that might be tolerated by a ground-dwelling reptile can still be risky for an arboreal gecko. If the warmest area is near the ceiling, your gecko may repeatedly choose that spot and stay there long enough to be injured.

Equipment problems matter too. A missing thermostat, a thermostat probe in the wrong place, a bulb with wattage that is too high, poor ventilation, or a fixture without a guard can all lead to burns. Even well-meant heating changes during winter can become dangerous if temperatures are not checked with reliable digital thermometers at the gecko's actual climbing level.

Your vet usually diagnoses a burn by combining a physical exam with a careful history of the enclosure and heating setup. PetMD notes that physical examination and history are the main tools for diagnosing thermal burns in reptiles. Your vet may ask what type of bulb or heat pad you use, whether it is inside or outside the enclosure, whether a thermostat is attached, and what temperatures you have measured at the basking and climbing surfaces.

During the exam, your vet will look at the depth of the injury, whether the skin is intact, and whether there are signs of infection or dead tissue. They will also assess hydration, body condition, pain, and whether the burn is affecting the mouth, eyes, toes, tail tip, or large areas of skin. In some cases, the full extent is not obvious on day one, so your vet may recommend rechecks over the next several days.

Additional testing is not always needed for a small superficial burn, but it may be recommended for deeper or infected wounds. Depending on the case, your vet may suggest cytology or culture of discharge, bloodwork in a very sick gecko, or imaging if there is concern about deeper tissue damage. The goal is not only to confirm the burn, but also to decide how much supportive care your gecko needs.

Bring photos of the enclosure, the exact heating products, and your temperature readings if you can. That helps your vet identify the cause and lower the risk of another injury after your gecko goes home.

The safest approach is to make every heat source inaccessible and carefully controlled. Heating lamps should stay outside the enclosure, and any bulb or emitter should be positioned so your crested gecko cannot touch it through the screen or climb close enough to overheat. Guarded fixtures, appropriate bulb wattage, and a reliable thermostat are key parts of prevention.

Avoid hot rocks and other direct-contact heaters that create concentrated hot spots. If supplemental heat is needed, ask your vet which option best fits your enclosure and room temperatures. For many crested geckos, the bigger risk is overheating rather than underheating, especially in smaller tanks or homes that are already warm.

Use at least two accurate digital thermometers, and measure temperatures where your gecko actually spends time, including upper climbing areas near the lid. Check temperatures after any seasonal change, bulb replacement, enclosure upgrade, or thermostat adjustment. A setup that was safe in one room or one season may not stay safe in another.

Finally, think like a climbing gecko. Crested geckos jump, cling to mesh, and explore the highest points in the enclosure. Keep perches, vines, and decor far enough from warm lids and fixtures that your gecko cannot rest directly under a dangerous hot spot. If you are unsure whether your setup is safe, bring photos and temperature readings to your vet for a husbandry review.