First Week With a New Rabbit: What to Expect and How to Help Them Settle In

Many rabbits are reserved at first. Hiding, staying in one corner, coming out more at dawn or dusk, and startling at normal household sounds can all happen during the first several days. Some rabbits may also thump, box, or run back to their hide when approached. These behaviors often improve as the rabbit learns that the new space is safe.

You may also notice that your rabbit is more interested in exploring than interacting. That is normal. Rabbits usually settle better when they can choose when to come forward. Try spending time on the floor near their enclosure instead of reaching in repeatedly. Let them sniff you, and reward calm curiosity with a small amount of their usual greens or pellets.

For the first week, think small and safe rather than giving full access to the house right away. A pen or rabbit-proofed room with traction underfoot, a litter box, hay, water, and a hide box works well. Rabbits often choose one bathroom corner naturally, which can help with early litter habits.

Keep the area well ventilated and away from heat, direct sun, barking dogs, and constant foot traffic. Rabbits are sensitive to stress and overheating. Cover or block electrical cords, baseboards, and other chew targets before supervised exercise time. A rabbit that feels secure in one predictable area usually settles faster than one placed into a large, noisy space.

The safest first-week feeding plan is consistency. Offer unlimited grass hay at all times, fresh water every day, and the same pellet and greens routine the rabbit was already eating if you know it. Adult rabbits generally do best with mostly hay, a measured amount of timothy-based pellets, and a variety of leafy greens. VCA notes that adult rabbits commonly receive about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of timothy pellets per 5 pounds of body weight daily, with vegetables introduced gradually.

Do not rush to offer lots of treats or new foods. Sudden diet changes can disrupt the normal digestive flora and contribute to gas, soft stool, or gastrointestinal stasis. If your rabbit is under about 7 months old, their diet may differ from an adult rabbit’s, so confirm the plan with your vet. Young rabbits are often still eating alfalfa-based hay or pellets as they grow.

Most rabbits do not settle in faster because they are held more. In fact, frequent lifting can increase fear during the first week. Rabbits are prey animals, and being picked up can feel threatening. Instead, focus on low-pressure bonding. Sit quietly nearby, offer hay or a familiar green, and let your rabbit investigate you.

Gentle petting on the forehead may be accepted sooner than full-body handling, but follow your rabbit’s body language. If they flatten, dart away, grind teeth loudly, or seem tense, back off and try again later. Children should be supervised closely, and everyone in the home should know that chasing a rabbit or lifting them without support can cause injury and delay trust.

Rabbits are often tidier than new pet parents expect, but the first week can still be messy. Urine marking, scattered droppings, digging, and chewing are common ways rabbits explore and communicate. Place hay near or in the litter area, clean soiled spots regularly, and avoid punishing accidents. Calm repetition works better than correction.

Remember that rabbits are naturally most active around dawn and dusk. Your new rabbit may nap much of the day and then become energetic in the evening. Chewing is also normal and necessary for dental and behavioral health, so provide safe outlets like untreated cardboard, hay-based toys, and rabbit-safe chew items.

A shy rabbit can still be healthy. What matters most is eating, drinking, and producing normal droppings. Contact your vet promptly if your rabbit is eating much less, refusing favorite foods, producing fewer or smaller fecal pellets, having diarrhea, seeming bloated, breathing with effort, tilting the head, or acting painful or unusually still. VCA specifically warns that decreased appetite and reduced stool production can be early signs of gastrointestinal stasis, which needs urgent veterinary attention.

If you do not already have a rabbit-savvy clinic, the first week is a good time to establish care and schedule a wellness visit. Bring any records from the breeder, rescue, or shelter, including age estimate, sex, diet, vaccine history if relevant in your area, and any recent illness or medications.

Aim for a quiet routine: refresh hay and water daily, monitor appetite and droppings, spot-clean the litter area, and allow supervised exercise in a rabbit-proofed space. Keep household introductions slow, especially with children, cats, or dogs. If your rabbit came from a rescue or previous home with a known diet, stick closely to that plan before making gradual changes.

By the end of the first week, many rabbits are still adjusting, so do not judge the relationship too quickly. Some become social within days. Others need a few weeks before they relax fully. A calm setup, steady feeding routine, and early attention to warning signs give your rabbit the best chance to settle in safely.